With AGE, it gets harder and harder to keep skin smooth and supple. Why AGE? It is the very appropriate acronym for “Advanced Glycation Endproducts”. AGEs are a natural part of the aging process, first observed in the skin at the age of 20, and accumulate at a rate around 3.7% per year. Colin, our researcher, explains in detail.
With AGE, it gets harder and harder to keep skin smooth and supple. Why AGE? It is the very appropriate acronym for “Advanced Glycation Endproducts”. AGEs are a natural part of the aging process, first observed in the skin at the age of 20, and accumulate at a rate around 3.7% per year. Colin, our researcher, explains in detail.
So what is glycation? A spontaneous, non-enzymatic covalent binding of reducing sugars and the amino-groups of proteins. Basically, sugars are added onto proteins, which can result in a modification of their structure and activity. High concentrations of reducing sugars due to diet, and exposure to UV both contribute to the phenomenon.
It is especially important when considering ‘long-lived’ proteins, like collagen, which structures the skin. Loss of elasticity contributes to outward signs of aging such as wrinkles. Moreover structural changes can also freeze antioxidant enzymes (which are also proteins): resulting in a snowball effect.
To illustrate, many are familiar with a one form of glycation every morning at breakfast, when making toast. Under the effect of heat, sugar molecules are linked to flour proteins in a process called the Maillard Reaction. This gives the bread its much appreciated flavour and crispiness.
In skin, crispiness is less appreciated. Luckily, it is possible to act through our diets and skin care. Nutrition experts recommend limiting excess sugar and eventually taking vitamin B1 and B6 supplements. The use of daily sun-protection and an appropriate skin care routine will also help.
In this way, we decided to research in vitro accelerated protein aging. When we included Alga-Gorria, our extract of the Basque seaweed Gelidium sesquipedale, diluted to 1% in solution it reduced AGE formation by almost 40%. This is a level of inhibition comparable to that of the reference AGE inhibitor aminoguanidine.
Alga-gorria, our exclusive ingredient which is included in our sunscreen range as well as our skincare line, helps to prevent signs of the AGEs.